I Heart Argentina....parte tres

I'm back for yet another installment of "I Heart Argentina....parte tres".  I'm your host, Vallazza-Raptor.

Though it's been almost two years since I've been back to Argentina, I remember many of its attributes quite fondly.  (sigh...)

I forgot what number I was on in my last installment, but for times sake, I'll just continue with the #7.

7) Los Boliches
Los Boliches are what Argentines call their night clubs.  I've only been to a few, but that's all I need to know. They also call their clubs "el disco" but I prefer "Los Boliches".  The night life in Argentina doesn't get started until 2 a.m. or after.  It saddens me that the U.S. is missing out on this type of nightlife because last call is usually at 1:30 a.m. in a place like Jacksonville.  It's no wonder that most other people think American's are boring...we don't get the party started.  Latinos, however, could party all the way until the sunrise!  I know this for a fact because I did it many times in Costa Rica and in Argentina, but I also had the dubious pleasure of accompanying someone until the wee morning hours of daylight in a small beach town in Argentina called "Monte Hermoso".

As I was saying, while the club doesn't open until 2 a.m., but the real fun doesn't start until 3 or 4 in the morning.  That's when the club starts hopping. You're there, packed with numerous amounts of people, almost to the point of claustrophobia, dancing...sweating...getting into close quarters with people you didn't know existed until five seconds ago. It's marvelous, really.

I went to several places in Bahía Blanca, Argentina, as well as the surrounding cities in December 2012.  My friends took me to Monte Hermoso, a nice little beach town that has the fame of being the only city in Argentina where the beach has both a sunrise and sunset on the water. It's really a beautiful little town.  In any case, they took me to a place called "El Pelícano" (The Pelican) at 1 a.m. and my friend, her husband and I all danced with one another until the place closed.  However, I did end the night dancing with a beautiful man who ended up whisking me away to another club down the street until the sun rose...it was a great night...or morning...  I shall call him Señor J.  We ended up dancing all night, through the morning until he dropped me off at my friends beach house at 9 a.m..  We made out passionately like teenagers...it was pretty nice. ;) Not sure I want a repeat with him, but like I've mentioned before, I don't allow just ANYONE to make it past first base with me unless there's potential.

In the boliches, you dance to whatever music is popular in Argentina, which is typically cumbia villera, or whatever Argentine rock band is popular. There are some even American Top 40 hits that they play on the airwaves in Argentina.  I quite enjoy cumbia of any sort, but I think cumbia villera now has a soft spot in my heart as well. My dad hates it. He prefers cumbia colombiana.  What can I say? I like accordeon/bandoneon music and I'm nerdy that way.

The last time I went to Argentina in July 2013, I went to a Cuban boliche.  Though I'm not Cuban, I do and have associated more with Cubans than I have my own background. Perhaps it's because my sister has been married to a Cuban for the last 24 years or so. I like Cuban food and I like their style of dancing to salsa and merengue.  In any case, I heard about my fellow compadres having a Cuban restaurant in Argentina and that they played salsa, so naturally I had to go sample the food and dance to the music.

I felt like a celebrity once I arrived!

I requested a few merengues from the DJ. The lady stared at me, and asked, "De dónde eres?" (Where are you from, using the "tú"form.) I smiled and said I was from Florida.  She immediately announced to the guys behind the bar that I was from Miami and that I had come to dance for the night.  I was instantly plied with free mojitos and all the merengue and salsa I wanted, because when "you're from 'Miami', you're instantly Cuban"...Although I'm not Cuban and I'm actually from or live in Jacksonville. I lacked no dance partners at all that night.  It was nice because I could dance without having to worry about being pawed upon.  I just went to dance, and dance I did!  I closed the restaurant down there as well at 6 a.m..  Truly a wonderful experience.

This is not to say that I am a party animal either in the States. I just simply like to dance. I enjoy music. I enjoy meeting people. I don't like close quarters. I sometimes get social anxiety if I feel there's too many people someplace.

If you go to Argentina, I recommend going at least once to the disco/boliche.  They can be pretty fun. Though take some TP.  The toilet paper is thin or sometimes non-existent in the bathrooms at the boliches.

I went with my friend's brother and his friends once and since I was the "Yanqui" I was also instant celebrity and given free drinks.  The bartender thought I was pretty, but I was not interested. But he still kept the drinks coming!  We stayed out until 7 a.m. that night. :)

8) El acento.
Oh, my goodness...the first time I ever heard any Argentine speak was through the speakers in my dad's Oldsmobile station wagon. I was 4 and listening to my father's recordings of tango as we drove around Kansas City.  I noticed they spoke Spanish differently than what I was used to hearing.  I had actually heard tangos for years, but never really noticed their accent until then. I asked my dad, "Porque hablan diferente?"  Why do they speak funny?

"Porque son argentinos," he replied.

At four years old, I had no idea what Argentines were, nor that there was a country named Argentina.  All I knew was that I liked the way they sang and that their tango was sexy.  Of course, I didn't know what "sexy" meant either, but now as an adult, I recognize that I was turned on by Argentines from a very early age.

Fast forward to my early college years, beginning in 2001.

I was beginning to have more of an interest in my Hispanic backgrounds.  I was taking a class called "Introduction to Latin America" at Johnson County Community College.  I remember there being this beautiful man in my class that I liked staring at.  I would get embarrassed whenever he caught me staring at him.  Whenever he opened his mouth, he spoke English with the most beautiful accent. I finally brought up the courage to ask him where he was from one day before class as we waited out in the hallway.

"I am from Argentina," he said, with his beautiful accent emerging from that beautiful mouth.

I got shivers down my spine...and into my core...goosebumps emerged.

True, in 1996, I had seen "Evita" in the theatre as Madonna sang and danced her way onto the streets of Buenos Aires.  There had been a kerfuffle amongst Argentines against the idea that Madonna was going to be playing one of their more revered historical characters.  Having Madonna portray Eva Perón was like saying that Steppenwolf would be playing Mariachi music at the presidential inauguration for Clinton. I even did a report on Evita in 10th grade where I got a 100%. Woot woot.

Anyways...I digress...Back to the hot Argentine in my class...

When he spoke Spanish in class, I about melted.  I had never heard anyone use "Vos" for "you".  I had only grown up with "tú" or "Usted".  As well as, "sos" for "you are" instead of "eres".  It was all so mysterious. It was then that I discovered that not all Spanish speakers speak the same Spanish. I knew there were slight differences because my mom speaks Mexican Spanish and my dad Ecuadorean, but I never thought about the even bigger differences between the continents or even regions within one's country.  I was only 18, so I didn't know.

I hungered to find more of these people!

For the above mentioned class, I elected to do a report on the tango. Who knew better information about the tango than my dad?!  My grandfather knew a lot as he had lived with uncles in Buenos Aires in the 1920s. But my grandfather had passed away in 1997, so I couldn't ask him.

Papi had all sorts of tango songs which I promptly downloaded.  I had grown up listening to many of the old tangos that were played on the airwaves in Buenos Aires back in the 1930s.  Singers such as Carlos Gardel, Julio Sosa, Argentino Ledesma, etc...I knew a lot of those songs. Their accents and the lyrics made me melt!  There's even a movie that is one of my favorites called "Tango, no me dejes nunca".  I have watched that movie so many times over and over again. I love the music, dancing and the script. Beautiful.

One time, I was out with The Girlies - Toaster Oven and Squeak Rodriguez, when I was tapped on the shoulder by a very handsome man. He asked me to dance. So we did and I discovered that he was from Argentina because he winked at me and said, "Qué hermosa sos!".

I about died...

"Stop it! My underwear is melting!" I exclaimed.  I told him that I loved his accent.  He continued to say that I was beautiful.  Alas...I was in a relationship at that time, so I wouldn't have done anything further but dance with him, but his accent was divine and dreamy.

The same thing can be said when I actually go to Argentina. I actually enjoy sitting in the café listening to the people talk with one another. It's like "People Watching" but more of "Listening".  I love doing it.

"Hola ché!  Cómo andas?" they say with sing-song quality.

"Bien, mi amor. Cuándo venís a la Argentina?" (Fine, my love. When are you coming to Argentina?) they'll ask.

"Cuándo vos quieras" (Whenever you want)

I developed a mini crush on some of the men in Argentina when I go visit simply because of the way they speak. One male friend in particular knows this and will just speak to me while I develop goosebumps on arms. He is such a tease...jerk... lol.

I've always said that I may end up with an Argentine just because I love the way they speak. Who knows if that will still be true?

9) La Plata
The name "Argentina" is actually derived from the Latin word, argentum, meaning "Silver".  On the periodic table of elements, it has a symbol of "Ag".  Silver is one of the most important metals in the world. In any case, the country Argentina got its name because of the myth and subsequent discovery of the mountains being made of silver.  In fact, the most important river in Argentine economy, "Rio de la Plata", was thus named because when Argentina was first discovered by European discoverers, it looked like a ribbon of silver running through the countryside.  I personally dislike the English translation of the river, 'River Plate'.  I think of actual fine-bone China plates, not "plate" as in "silver plate".  I prefer "Silver River".

Whatever...

The point I'm trying to make without having to digress through numerous historical facts is that Argentina's silver trade is lovely.

The first time I went to Argentina, I purchased a pair of simple silver hoop earrings.  Alas, I lost one in the back seat of a car only last fall.  The owner of the car found the earring, but has declined to return it to me unless I go back out and date him again.  To which I say, "poo", cause that jazz isn't happening ever again.  He was so boring...I digress yet again.

The silver is so abundant in Argentina. The silver smiths have done some tremendous work on their jewelry. I love all the pieces that I've garnered from the jewelry shops there, though I still want my earring back...

GRRR....

I'll just have to travel to Argentina once more to get another pair. :)

Just think!  My friends will have fun with that fact. I'll get to go back and visit my fellow Argentines again soon. :)

I Heart Argentina! Parte Una

I am an aficionada of all things Argentina.

I just love that country!

My Argentine friends think I am nuts when I say I love their country and that I want to live there eventually.  I mean, what's not to love?

Most people are familiar with Argentina simply because of one of the greatest soccer (football) players ever, Lionel Messi.  They think, "Oh, Argentina! That's where Messi is from."

Most others will just simply stare at you with blank looks since they're that ignorant on the location of said country.

However, there's more to Argentina than just soccer players.

1) Argentina.

Most tourists that go to Argentina can probably say, without a doubt, that that country is pretty awesome.

Argentina is like the U.S., but obviously they speak Spanish there, and maybe a few other languages, such as Italian, German and Amerindian languages.

You have 23 provinces

that stretch from the tip of South America all the way to the middle of the South American continent. Within them, you have a varied landscape (just like the U.S.) that goes from

Great Plains-like open land

That looks like Kansas to me!

to picturesque, snow-capped mountains and forests like Bariloche

Where are the Von Trapps?

to amazing waterfalls

to bustling metropolis

Buenos Aires is really a beautiful city. 

 and also some whale watching experiences at Puerto Madryn

FREE WILLY!!!

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 If you hold wine close to your heart, you will really enjoy the Mendoza area.

Mmmm...Malbec

Argentine wine is so flavorful. Malbec is a favorite of mine. We have an affair every so often.

Gotta be classy!  Drink my Malbec in an international mug.

Drinking wine brings me to the...

2) Food.

I went to Argentina for the first time in 2011.  I went in June and for part of July. Before leaving the United States, I had packed all of my warm winter clothes that had fit me in January 2011 into my suitcase.  Please remember that while Argentina may be in South America, they will have cold weather when it's hot up in the U.S. because of the differences in location above and below the equator.

I remember the day that I left, I threw on a pair of my size 10 jeans.  I had no idea that they would not fit me. I couldn't button them. At least I could zip up my fly and wear my coat over my pants so that no one would notice that I was wandering around with open pants.

My trip was to last for 3 weeks.

My best friend's mom, who has been to Argentina many times, warned me that the first time that she went, she gained about 20 pounds in the 3 weeks that she was there.  I remember thinking, "That's not going to happen to me."

You might think it may not happen to you, too.

WRONG!

I gained 12 pounds. If you thought I couldn't zip up my fly GOING to Argentina, I couldn't even fit into my pants AT ALL while I was there. I had to buy three pairs of new pants that were a size bigger so that a) I wouldn't freeze my butt off and b) so that I could have something decent to wear instead of a pair of track pants. I felt like such a fat ass while I was there. LOL.

The food is SOOOO amazing.  Let me describe for you the deliciousness of these delights.

Breakfast

Argentines don't eat big breakfasts like Americans do.  While a traditional, American breakfast will comprise of toast, juice, pancakes, cereal, bacon and eggs, or whatever else My Fellow Americans eat when they sit down to eat the most important meal of the day, in Argentina it's much different.

They will simply have a roll with butter and jelly.  Or perhaps they will have a "factura".  These are the most delicious pastries in the world.  They are your typical bakery items with flaky crusts.  They are doused in butter, then baked to golden, crispy, flaky perfection.  As you hopefully noticed, I said, "Butter", Paula Deen's favorite ingredient.

Pasta

Now, their pasta...UGH!  YUM!  Argentines may speak Spanish, but the majority of the families that immigrated to Argentina are Italian in origin.  I know this because I have extended Italian relatives that moved to Argentina at the turn of the 20th century.  My great-grandfather was the only one who chose to keep going to Ecuador, but that's another story.  So...as I was saying, Argentines are just Spanish-speakers with Italian accents because they are 90% Italian origin.

The Italians brought their language, their customs and their food.  Any American who has been to an Italian restaurant can say they've had spaghetti, or lasagna, or ravioli, gnocchis...  Let's just say that in Argentina, all the pasta is FRESHLY made...that same day!  You go home and cook it...it's light and airy...the spaghetti sauce is real too, freshly made that day as well. The sauce can be creamy with milk based ingredients, or tomato saucy. Yum!

Raviolis with chopped walnuts...YUM!

Asado
This next topic of gastronomy is an Argentine staple.  Argentina has the best beef in the world.  Hands down-- THE BEST.  Since I've not been to Brasil (at least, not INSIDE their country as opposed to being trapped in one of their airports--that's another story here), I can't compare Brasilian beef to Argentine beef. I think they fight over the title of Best Beef Capital of the World.  Kansas City would be a distant third.  Kansas City (shout out to my homies!) has pretty amazing beef too (that in turn is another story).

Since by birth, I am an American, most everybody wants to throw me an asado when they discover my origins.  "¡Hola, che! Queremos hacer un asado para vos!"  ( Hey Man! We want to have a bbq for you!)

Let me just tell you -- I feel like the Queen of England with all of this attention!

Argentines will take anything that had four legs which walked the earth and will barbecue it.

No joke. They will take a cow, pig, sheep, and anything else I didn't mention, split it open, put it on a spit or a grill over wood, and cook it until well done.

They also will take the intestines and make sausages out whatever leftover bits of meat and fat the animal had.

They are like the Native Americans. They will take all parts of the animal and make something with it. You can have cutlery with bones or hooves for handles. You can wear boots, jackets or purses and wallets with the animal you just ate.

It's amazing.

My friend in Argentina, I will refer to her as A.S., her family is pretty worldly since they go to the U.S. quite a lot.  They have had American BBQ sauce and like it a lot.  However, most other Argentines would be INSULTED if you slapped BBQ sauce over their meat.  What you want to eat over your meat there is "chimichurri sauce".

This green sauce is made up of olive oil, parsley and garlic.  It's pretty amazing too. The longer it sits, mixing the ingredients together, the better the flavor.


Argentina gastronomy is pretty banging.


Mate

Mate is a type of drink similar to tea.  However, it is brewed differently.  You heat the water until almost boiling.  You then pour the hot water from a kettle or a thermos into a mate gourd or metal cup with chopped yerba mate leaves.  The way this drink is consumed is through a metal straw with a sieve or special mesh filter that filters out the leaves.

RVallazza_2012

Drinking mate is a ritual amongst Argentines.  It is consumed with family and or friends, or even strangers.  The person who pours the water must take the first sip, as it is the most bitter.  He or she will drink the water from the gourd until you hear a slurping sound.  This is okay as it means that you will now pass the mate gourd back to the pourer.  He or she will pour some more and pass it to the next person.  This goes on until everyone has had a long, slurping sip of hot mate and either a) asks for more or b) you say "gracias" which tells the pourer you don't want anymore. They will then pass it off to the next person until everyone has satisfied their "thirst" for mate.


Most people consume it without sugar, but some consume it with juice (during summer), or with a little sugar or honey.

The first time I tried it was in 2006 when my roommate offered me some.  His dad was from Argentina and he drank mate every day.  I thought he was nuts for enjoying this drink, but sometimes, you just keep trying.  Then you learn to like it.

I help run a cultural student exchange through a non-profit organization with a friend of mine here in Jacksonville, Florida.  One year, some of the Argentine students broke out his mate and hot water in the cafeteria and began to sip and pass around.  The principal of the school sought the student and his homies, believing they were indulging in cannabis.  Now, I do not profess to be an expert in the consumption of illegal substances, but one look at mate and most people will realize that IT IS NOT a hallucinogenic narcotic.

They offered this principal, who abstains from anything considered illegal, such as alcohol (oh my!), a sip.  She politely declined, but not before she had the school resource officer confirm that mate was indeed a tea-like beverage.

Parte Dos to come soon... I will be talking about Shopping and long distant transport within Argentina.  Nightlife and Jewelry in the third installment.